How to build a basic portable solar power system – camping,boating,off grid living-

I’m building a portable solar power supply to use on my boat, so throw it make a quick video showing how it’s done. This kind of setup can be used for camping, motorhomes boats or, if you scale it up, can be used as an alternative power supply for living off the grid.

I got all the parts I need from eBay for around $ 200 and I’ll. Be using an old car battery to store the power from the solar panel, a 40 watt 12 volt solar panel should be all I need to power. My fish finder, GPS lights, radio, water pump and a few 240 volt appliances.

If I was running a refrigerator, I’d, need at least 100 watts. The power inverter converts 12 volt DC from the car battery into 240 volt AC 110 AC. If you live in the States, this one is rated to 1500 watts.

It came with these alligator leads to connect directly to the battery, but I’ll, be adding a hundred amp circuit breaker to give it some overload protection. This is the brain of the system, a 30 amp charge controller.

You connect the solar panel and battery to it and it charges the battery to the correct voltage when the battery is fully charged. It will either disconnect from the solar panel or direct excess power to the load output, which you can use to heat water charge.

Another battery run a 12-volt appliance or control a 12 volt relay connected to the inverter to run AC appliances being 30 amps means I can add, more as needed. The 40 watt panel I have only makes about 3 amps maximum.

This is the diode block. All that to the positive wire coming from the solar panel, it stops any power leaking back to the panel when the Sun Goes Down. Some panels have this built in already say: don’t have to worry about it and the waterproof clog.

For when I want to disconnect the solar panel, I’m using an old car battery to store the power from the solar panel and run the inverter. It has a fairly low capacity, so I’ll, upgrade to a deep cycle battery.

Eventually, first of all connect the battery to the controller, make sure to connect the wires to matching terminals, positive positive and negative to negative. The controller screen should light up and show the battery status.

I’ve, already connected the diode block to the positive wire from the solar panel. It only lets power for one way, so no power is lost at night when the panel isn’t charging. If the panel has this built-in, you won’t have to worry about this step.

Next, I’ll, add the waterproof plug between the panel and controller. Usually I’d solder and seal all connections, but for this demo I’m using terminal blocks. The other end of the lead from the panel was connected to solar and put on the controller.

Now I’ll plug in the solar panel, face it towards the Sun, should start charging you can see here. The solar panel is putting out 1.8 amps, which the control is feeding into the battery. It’s pretty flat, so take away water fully charged and the Sun is low on the horizon, so output is quite low and full Sun would see closer to 3 amps.

The good thing about this control is, you can adjust all the parameters by scrolling through with the mode button. So it lets you choose the threshold for when the load comes on, when the battery is full and when it cuts out again and you can adjust when the solar panel stops, charging lunch or selected battery voltage has been reached.

I’ll use this 12 volt spotlight to demonstrate how the load function works. I’ve set the load threshold to 14 volts. So when the battery reaches this level, the controller sins exist power to the spotlight until voltage drops of 13 point 5 volts, this prevents the battery from overcharging and that you use the excess power for other things.

You could charge another battery heat water control, the relay to use AC power from the inverter. Before I connect the inverter to the battery, I’ll. Add a hundred amp circuit breaker to the positive lead this should cut out before any damage is done to the inverter if it overloads when connecting the leads to the inverter make sure they go on the right terminals, red to positive and black to negative will turn It into a blue smoke generator you can see when I switch it on.

It uses some power even with no load, so that’s, something to be aware of. If you’re, not using it, switch it off or have the power switch controlled by relay so let’s. Put it to work. I ‘ Ve got a 710 watt drove here.

It should only draw a few hundred watts when freerunning [ Applause ] handles it with ease next up an absorption fridge/freezer, not the most efficient design. They have a little heating element in the back.

There easy that’s, probably drawing about a hundred watts. Now I’ll, try the 800 watt toaster, not a problem and theory. This should squeeze out 1500 watts, but I don’t like to push it to its limits. The battery is filling it down to about 10.

8 volts that sound. You can hear as the fan keeping the electronics cool so that’s. All there is to it how to set up a portable solar power plan. If you’re, not confident working with high voltages best to get an electrician to check your work,

Source : Youtube